Feb 29th - don't understand your banter

Monty Python banter sketch (for reference)


Yesterday's post was a bit of a picture-fest with the Milford Sound et al - but today is a more modest affair because it's mostly been a day on the road - and also extremely wet.
We left Mackay's Creek at 8.30am - but I have to tell you the sad news that Trout Athletic increased their lead to 3-0 - and now with not much time left in the game the fickle Napier Anglers fans are beginning to trickle out of the stadium...

The rain was lashing down - but despite this we were making good progress towards the East coast. These days, the roads in the deepest south are pretty good but not so long ago the isolated communities were dependent on a band of intrepid airmen to keep the supply lines open. Just before we reached Gore we came upon a museum commemorating these brave pioneers - including a guy called Dave Cross who built his own plane and became the first man in NZ to be fined for flying without a licence in the 1930s. Once again, we found ourselves inspired - and this got the creative juices flowing for a new LP....

We stopped for a quick lunch in Gore and then travelled on through the rain to New Zealand's fourth largest city - Dunedin. For many years all 'Dunedin' meant to me was the Montgomery's house on Red Lane - but of course the house was named after Gill Montgomery's home town. 

After a quick look around the 'Edinburgh of NZ' we drove along the slightly alarming coast road out to the Otago Peninsular and found a campsite in Portobello. I suspect the views from the road are pretty stunning when the sun shines but today we did not see much. And so here we are with the rain still pouring down and the wind literally shaking the van. We invested in some classy NZ wine at the supermarket which is helping us compensate. The inclement weather makes it hard to keep things clean and tidy - which brings me to camper van mystery number 2...

Feb 28th - The Sound of Mordor

This evening's campsite is at a place called Mackay's Creek on the Milford Road which is an isolated spot. There is no signal even on the cunning NZ telecom mobile wifi hub - so this will have to be posted tomorrow morning on the road. This place is very Lord of the Rings. We only need a couple of brain dead midgets, an old wedding ring on a string and a shaved monkey on helium for the full effect. But, dear reader, I am leaping ahead.

This morning we rose at stupid O'clock as the Milford Sound is 120km from Te Anau and we wanted to get there before the bulk of the crowds (bussed in from Queenstown) arrived. So we were on the road before the sun pixies had found the crevice nozzle which has always mysteriously become separated from the hoover. Here is a bit they just shoved into a low ravine hoping nobody would notice. 

Words are wretched clumsy things to describe this drive. Suffice it to say that anyone who has the remotest opportunity to come here should grab it with both hands, both feet and anything else they have two of. 

We stopped at Lake Gunn for breakfast and Rick did some fishing. So far it's Trout Athletic 2 Napier Anglers 0 - but as I speak he is hoping to pull one back - standing in his waders in the Mordor river. Fingers crossed!

We then resumed our drive to Milford Sound through the famous Homer tunnel - which enabled tourists to reach the sound for the first time in 1952. The tunnel took 20 years to complete and when you drive through it you can tell why. It is 1.2km hacked out of solid rock. There is 3.8m clearance and our van is 3.5m so we procdeded with caution but without incident. After a steep decent we arrived at this famous stretch of water. We bought tickets for the 11.45 sailing - complete with barbecue lunch and visit to the underwater Discovery Centre - and set off towards the Tasman Sea. Again - words are pretty pointless.

I was interested why one of the world's most beautiful places should have inherited a whole bunch of names from a dreary Welsh container port - but the answer is pretty simple. The first (western) man who accidentally discovered the place when running from a storm in 1812 was a Welsh Seeler called John Grono. He came from Milford Haven so that is what he named the place. But then John Lort Stokes, the captain of a Royal Navy vessel on surveying duty, who coincidentally also came from Milford Haven, changed the name to Milford Sound and added all the other derived names - e.g. Mount Pembroke. In fact, this stretch of water is technically a Fjord (having been created by a glacier) and not a Sound at all. History lesson over!


Once again we were lucky with the weather. Our guide aboard told us that frequently the sea is far too rough to get anywhere near the entrance to the Sound, whereas today we got right out to Anita Bay. Today's record breaking concept album can only be called 'The Milford Sound!'  

After leaving Milford we headed back through the tunnel towards this campsite - but first had to empty wastes at a place called Knob Flats (OK too much information) - but I relate this because it was an instance of the first of a number of 'motor caravan mysteries' we have encountered. 

One can only conclude it must be the evil thargs of Suparon who get caught short while rummaging our lockers for supernatural jewellery.

Feb 27th - All aboard the Kingston Flyer

The day dawned rather gloomy - both because the weather was cloudy and because some minor North London team had beaten the mighty Spurs 5-2 which did not please our host. However, the weather began to improve quite quickly as the sun pixies swiftly hoovered the lingering clouds from the mountains. We headed back to Queenstown for a coffee on the quay - where the 100 year old steamer TSS Earnslaw had just docked.

Over our coffee we were musing as to how a 168 ft, 330 ton ship was transported to the lake in 1912. We concluded that it must have been constructed at a shipyard on the lake as in 1912 there wasn't even a road to Queenstown let alone vehicles that could move a load that large.


As the weather had now turned distinctly perfect we decided that the cable car up the mountain was a 'must do'. Not a bad view from the top!

We had decided to head for Te Anau that night so we departed Queenstown at about 2pm. On the way out of town we spotted a sign to Kingston and we thought we should call in and get a photo for Phil and Jane. So here we are at Kingston station....

They did a good lunch at the station so we tucked in - and at 3 O'Clock the train arrived! This was pulled by one of the engines that ran on the original line from Dunedin and Invercargill - now run by volunteers for the tourists. It was a truly impressive sight.

And thus we solved our mystery about the Earnslaw. She was built in Dunedin in 1911 and shipped in parts to Kingston on the train. She was assembled on the lake shore and launched on Feb 24th 1912. From there she was moved to Queenstown to be fitted out. We were inspired by this story - and felt another album coming on.

26th Feb - Queenstown

When we woke up this morning the rain was coming down heavily - so we had a good laugh at the expense of all the tent dwellers wringing the water out of everything they own and eating their breakfast standing up in full oilskins. Why do people do this - especially in a country like this where the rain is savage? I cannot comprehend it.


We left at about 11 O'Clock heading for Queenstown. We stopped off for lunch at an average sort of lay by - as you might find anywhere on a main road. (See below) 

Rick had a go at fishing in Lake Dunstan but the trout were being shy. We stopped off at Arrowtown which is an historic mining village from the gold rush days in the 1860s. No doubt this was a sleepy place until a few years ago but it has now been extensively 'got up' for the tourists. 

This is a mixed blessing in that much that was disintegrating has been restored but now it comes across almost like Main Street in Disney World - though of course it's the real thing. 


Then we headed down into Queenstown which has also been extensively developed and is now the centre of the 'adventure pursuits' industry. For all this, a better natural setting would be hard to imagine. We have settled in a campsite on the shore of Lake Wakatipu. 

As we drove through the town it was a beautiful sunny afternoon and, being a Sunday, there were many people on the beaches. But there was NOBODY in the water - not one. We could only conclude that this is because the lake is glacial and too cold to swim in. But when we arrived here it just looked too good so Rick and I swam in it anyway (Mum will be proud of us) and it was seriously glacial - but it had to be done!  

25th Feb - Lake Tekapo and Mount Cook

We woke up this morning to bright sunshine after yesterday's grim weather - and Rick cooked an excellent breakfast of scrambled egg, bacon and mushrooms. The Peel Forest campsite was a superior one with power and washing machines - so we charged up all the technology and washed some clothes before hitting the road. We headed down to Lake Tekapo - where the water has a deep turquoise colour (something to do with soft granite...)

Then we headed for Mount Cook - New Zealand's highest peak. There is a DOC (Department of Conservation) campsite near the village at the foot of the mountain - and that is where we are now.


We arrived at about 4.30pm - so just had time to walk the four miles to Hooker Lake - which is fed by glaciers on the mountain and is the source for the Hooker River.

The lake has icebergs in it !

The walk is not straightforward - you need certain mountain goat capabilities as the path is rough and you have to pick your way up some steep climbs from boulder to boulder. It's worth the effort though - a magical place.

24th Feb - Christchurch earthquake

Before we collected the van we went into Christchurch City centre to see the effects of last year's earthquake. It is amazing how concentrated the damage is. Just a short way out of the city there is very little evidence of any problem. However even 12 months on, progress is slow on dealing with the damage to the taller buildings.

What was really encouraging to see is the innovative approaches being taken to re-establish life and business in the city through temporary structures. There is a whole shopping area that has been created using portacabins - and these have been arranged imaginatively and painted in bright colours. The whole effect is very good and we had lunch at one of the restaurants there. It's going to take a long time before regeneration is complete but already it feels as though confidence is returning.

Feb 24th - Hanmer Springs (Be Yourself and Change the World!)

After catching the water taxi back to Kaiteriteri we headed off to our next destination - which was Hanmer Springs. This is a Spa town - the proud possessor of hot thermal springs smelling of rotten eggs as they inevitably do. We were booked into the 'Mountain View Masssage and Wellness Retreat' which sounded very grand. So having travelled through more dramatic scenery, mixed weather and spectacular mountain passes we arrived in town. I spotted a 'Harrogate Drive' as we drove through - but this place was more Twin Peaks than Yorkshire. Assuming that our destination would be obvious with such an imposing title we drove around thinking we must come across it soon. We scanned the names of the many grand properties we passed but no joy.  After a lot of kerb crawling we decided to consult the ipad. We followed the directions on the website back out of town and discovered that our destination was in fact a private bungalow in a quiet residential area. We were a bit concerned - but once we were shown our rooms we realised we had landed on our feet. The accomodation was top class - and tickets to the hot springs plus massages and breakfast were included in our price. I'm sorry to say, dear reader, that I did not have a massage - just not my thing. But everyone else obviously enjoyed theirs. The place was run by an Irish lady called Mary Jo and it was all very New Age - crystals a-go-go. Their motto is 'Be Yourself - and Change the World'. If only it was that simple! OK so I'm a dreadful old cynic - but the Mountain View tag was entirely justified.

In the evening we went for dinner in town which was excellent and then we squeezed in half an hour in the sulphur pools which were very pleasant at 42 degrees under the starry skies (hem hem). Friday dawns and it is Rick's birthday. So after an extra long massage (for him) we head off once again to Christchurch to pick up our van. On the way, we encounter a vineyard called 'Mud House' that Rick and Judi recognise as one of the better ones so we stop for a tasting. 

They try the Chardonnays but I am more interested in the Pinot Noir. Rick and Judi don't like the Chardonnays but I buy six bottles of Pinot Noir which we are now enjoying in our van at the Peel Forest campsite somewhere off Highway 72. On the way we encountered a spectacular hail storm with hailstones like frozen peas - a reminder of the fact that the weather is serious here.  

22nd Feb - Abel Tasman

We drove along the coast to a place called Kaiteriteri and took a taxi boat to Torrent Bay in the Abel Tasman National Park. 

 Rick had hired a bach, just off the beach powered only by solar panels - so plenty of lovely hot water for showering, but no electricity for drying hair or charging phones etc. When we arrived the weather was still fine with little sign of the deluge to come. So we had a nice glass of champagne on the beach.

We walked part of the Abel Tasman track on Wednesday morning. Rain had been forecast so Chris and I had purchased two rather ugly, but very useful rain ponchos. 

(We have some at home which are known as 'Duane Dibleys' after a character in Red Dwarf - but we forgot to bring them. So these were christened the 'Murray Dibleys' being an NZ equivalent. OK, you had to be there.... C)


It started drizzling as we were setting off and by the time we returned 4 hours later the rain was torrential. Although our bodies were dry, our feet were drenched. It continued raining for the rest of the day and all night only stopping about an hour before we had to leave.  The national park was magical.  I'm guessing it was a bit like walking through a rain forest. The flora was stunning and the bird noises were amazing.

Torrent Bay is an exceptionally beautiful place. OK - I'm aware this blog could get very boring indeed with everywhere being stunning, amazing, magical, beautiful blah blah - so I think maybe I'll just forget the superlatives and you can judge for yourselves from the photos. 


On Thursday morning the rain finally eased off. It had poured non-stop for about 15 hours. There were a couple of Kayaks under the bach so Rick and I decided to make the most of the couple of hours before the water taxi came.

And so we left Abel Tasman - all too short a visit - but we got the general idea. This is the kind of place you could spend a month and 'find yourself' or maybe write a classic album. Well - we shot the cover anyway!

20th Feb - Off to South Island!

Rick and Judi's friends had a lot of doom and gloom stories about how long it might take us to get to Wellington with mountain passes closed and heavy traffic on alternative routes. So we got up at stupid o'clock and hit the road by about 7.30am. In the event we made good time and we were in the queue for the Interisland ferry with plenty of margin. This is not a roll on - roll off ferry like we are used to. You have to drive in and then do a u-turn at the end of the hold so as to be facing in the right direction to drive off. Those who have done this trip from Wellington to Picton will know that you leave Wellington harbour and then head east along the Cook Straits before approaching Picton through the Marlborough Sounds. This is a stunning voyage and though it was windy, we spent as much of it as possible on deck.

When we arrived, the beauty of having had the whole trip arranged by 'natives' who know what they are doing really sunk in! We went straight to a 'bach' they had arranged for the night at a place called Anakiwa. This was nowhere in particular you might think- but the view down Queen Charlotte Sound was TO DIE DIE FOR.

So we admired this for a while over a few G&Ts - and then barbecued some sausages on the terrace and retired to bed. 

The following morning we went for a quick walk before setting off for the Abel Tasman.

19th Feb - Art Deco Weekend

So, at last, I touched down at Napier Airport at about 1030 on Thursday 16th.

17th -19th February in Napier is Art Deco weekend when they celebrate the rebuilding of the town in the 1930s following the devastating earthquake in February 1931. The whole town - plus many thousands of visitors - dress up in period costume. There is a whole range of events and the town is filled with cars from the period. There are air displays from single engined prop planes. It really is like being transported back in time.

Judi and Felicity looking the part

Dancers at the opening reception

Air New Zealand put on a show of different stewardess uniforms since 1940 - Laura managed to join them for a photo!

Many cruise ships try to visit Napier for this weekend....

A bit of wishful thinking on my part!

Truly an event for all ages!

This is a great event to attend as a visitor, especially as a guest of one of the organisers! The theme for this years event was the 75th anniversary of the Royal New Zealand Air Force - but it was actually the Navy that played a key part in the events of 1931. This was before the Royal New Zealand Navy came into existence - in those days it was the New Zealand division of the Royal Navy. It so happened that at 7am on the morning of the earthquake, HMS Veronica arrived in Napier and was tied up on the key by the time the tremor struck 3 hours later. All the land based communications were destroyed but fortunately the ship was able to radio for assistance and the crew played a critical part in stabilising the situation on shore. Rick asked me if I would write something for their magazine from a visitors point of view - so I have decided to write something about HMS Veronica and her Captain - one Commander Horace L. Morgan from Helston.

We had a quieter day on Sunday, getting packed up for our trip to the South Island.